The Woolly Bugger

Please note the kind of hook used: streamer hook 2X long. You can get away with using a standard hook if you tie really small buggers but they look much better and have a more undulating action when tied on a long hook. The fly will also look better, not so top-heavy, when a large bead is used.
Thread the bead over the hook (small hole first) and mount the thread behind the bead. Wrap the thread to a point opposite the (flattened, as always!) barb.

Prepare a tuft of marabou fibres by pulling it from the rib of the feather. This is one of the few times you cannot really overdo it, so take a nice big, lush clump of fibres.
Tie in opposite the barb on top of the hook. Start with two turns, keep tension on the thread and slightly roll the clump between thumb and forefinger of the other hand. The idea is to slightly spread the fibres around the shank. Stop when the shank is in the middle of the fibres rather than the fibres on top of the shank.
Add three more turns of tying thread under moderate tension at the tie-in point. Stroke the 'stumps' forward and flatten them with tying thread. When happy add a couple of half hitches for security.

Fill the void between the goldbead and the marabou with lead wire wraps. Add one, maybe two layers. Secure the wire wraps with thread and headcement.
Bring the tyingthread back to the point where the tail is tied in.

The next step is to tie in the hackle and the ribbing.
We need a feather that is 2 to 2,5 times the hook length and has fibres that are about 1 to 1,5 times the gape of the hook. The simplest way to measure this is by selecting a feather on the neck and hold it up against the hook without pulling it from the neck. That way you can search for a perfect one without ruining a lot of feathers.
When you have found a feather prepare it by stroking it against the grain. This will set all fibres on end. Then tie in close to the tip. Tying in at the tip ensures that the longest fibres will end up close to the fly's head, creating a collar that looks good.

Tie in the ribbing. Leave a reasonable end because ribbing is slippery and the last thing you want is for it to become loose half way through.

The body is being dubbed. I use a synthetic dubbing here but any dubbing will work. I do not use a dubbingloop in this pattern because the dubbing is here to provide colour and some bulk, it doesn't have to be straggly here.

(This is a fine example of my tying skills indeed: the hackle tip shows through the dubbing. If you ever want to tie for shows and exhibitions this is no good. For all other purposes: after the ribbing is in place and the hackle is wrapped, who is going to know?)

Rib first (and ask questions later).
Nice open wraps that will be easy to follow with the hackle in a moment. Tie off very carefully with at least three turns.

(And another fine demonstration of my fly tying abilities: I haven't completely filled out the gap between marabou and lead with dubbing. It shows as a dent in the middle of the fly. This is a big no-no for shows but after the hackle has gone on no one will know it is there.)

The hackle simply follows the ribbing wraps. If you have any hackle left just add a couple of turns extra behind the bead.
Tie the hackle off just behind the goldbead and whipfinish. Do not forget to secure the finish with headcement.

And here it is: The Woolly Bugger.

Links:

• How to make a whipfinish.